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Day 3 - Village on Top of the Range

Day 3 - Village on Top of the Range
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15 - 21 January

 

D'Aguilar National Park

Australia

 

27°S
153°E

371 - 620m ASL

 

Google Maps Link

 

   

Introduction to today's journey

Nestled atop the scenic range yet hidden amongst the vast eucalypt forest of the D'Aguilar National Park, the village of Mount Nebo captivates with its timeless charm carried by a rich tapestry of history. The village has served as a retreat for Brisbane residents seeking respite from the bustling city since it was established in the late nineteenth century. The village today retains its old-world allure, with its charming cottages and historic landmarks lining the winding streets echoing tales of a bygone era. As you ascend the winding trails, you feel the whispers of history amongst the towering forest. Mount Nebo beckons travellers to step into a world where time slows down, and the beauty of its history mingles with the tranquillity of the untouched nature enveloping it.

Today's journey departs Scrub Road Camp following South Boundary Road track along the ridge over the headwaters of Enoggera Creek to its end at Jolly's Lookout. From there I continue along the ridge to Mount Nebo Village which I hike through before heading up to the summit and lookout of Mount Nebo. From there I follow the ridge descending to Dundas Road Camp.

Distance hiked today: 24.3km

Total distance hiked: 79.1km

 
 

Today's Journey

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A chorus of birds heralds the new day as the humid dawn breaks at Scrub Road Camp. It is otherwise eerily quiet apart from the distant roar of the city coming to life far below. A little after sunrise I pack up and hit the trail, continuing my journey along South Boundary Road as it winds towards Mount Nebo. The path follows the ridge tracing above the source of Enoggera Creek. The forest here stands tall, boldly regenerating over recent decades replacing the giants of the original forest which were felled during the logging days of the 1940s and '50s. Following the logging, the land was protected as a forest park, eventually becoming a fully protected national park.

 

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As I reach the end of South Boundary Road, a short walk along Mount Nebo Road brings me to Jolly's Lookout. Here Samford Valley unfurls far below, offering a peaceful escape for those seeking a slower pace whilst remaining close to the city. The valley was once home to the indigenous Turrbal and Jagera people before European settlers arrived in the mid-1800s, transforming the land into fertile farmland.

 

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Jolly’s Lookout is a picnic spot where I pause to take in the view. It was named after William Jolly, a former mayor of Brisbane who first visited this breathtaking overlook in 1927.

 

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From Jolly’s Lookout, I begin my descent following the Ergenia Circuit into the the rainforest. The trail quickly leads into a world where the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and the sounds of rustling leaves. The dense canopy overhead filters the sunlight, casting a greenish glow that feels almost otherworldly above the headwaters of Jolly’s Creek and Enoggera Creek unseen.

 

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After completing the Ergenia Circuit, I follow Thylogale Track, where the landscape shifts dramatically. The rainforest gives way to a dense sclerophyll forest, with its hardy eucalyptus trees and the distinctive camphoraceous scent of the Australian bush. I catch a glimpse of the city centre far in the distance—a tiny, shimmering reminder of the urban world I’ve left behind in favour of exploring the wild, untamed beauty of the D’Aguilar Range.

 

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As I continue along the Thylogale Track, the forest begins to transform before my eyes. The sclerophyll trees gradually gives way to a more lush and dense rainforest, a sure sign that I’m now approaching the highest ridges of the D'Aguilar Range. The air becomes cooler and more humid, filled with the soft murmur of unseen streams and the rustling of leaves high above. The track twists and turns, guiding me deeper into this sanctuary until I finally arrive at the Boombana day-use area. Here I rest at one of the picnic tables.

 

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After resting at Boombana, I follow the Pitta Circuit until reaching a boardwalk circling a towering, ancient tree. From here I leave the circuit following the Post Office Track towards Mount Nebo Village. The trail suddenly ends upon reaching the village, my first glimpse of civilisation since yesterday morning. From here a concrete footpath winds through the village, perched 450 metres above sea level. Established in 1919 for returning World War I soldiers, Mount Nebo Village is now part of the Moreton Bay Region, which I’ll continue to follow along the range's western boundary.

 

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As I leave the charming Mount Nebo Village behind, I follow Forestry Road, a quieter, more secluded path offering an escape from the traffic on the main road. The road winds gently through the forest, where the trees close in and their leaves whisper in the breeze. Along the way, I pass several private forest cabins, each tucked away in the dense foliage, almost hidden from view. Forestry Road eventually comes to an end, where I rejoin the main road for a brief stretch to the Manorina car park where I join the next walking trail.

 

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From Manorina, I follow the Morelia Walking Track, which begins a gentle but steady ascent through the dense, untamed forest. The air grows cooler as I climb higher, the forest thickening around me with each step as I approach the summit of Mount Nebo. The name "Nebo" itself, steeped in biblical origins, suggests a place of great elevation and vision.

 

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Reaching the Mount Nebo lookout, just shy of the 620-metre summit, I am greeted by the Samford Valley stretching out before me, its verdant landscape contrasting sharply with the distant outlines of the suburbia of Strathpine and Redcliffe. Standing here, I start to get a sense of the many hundreds of kilometres of track yet to be trekked.

 

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From the lookout, I follow a firebreak for a short distance over the summit of Mount Nebo. The dense eucaplypt forest envelops me as I descend gradually through the subtly shifting landscape. The firebreak track eventually leads me down to Mount Nebo Road, which I cross and follow briefly before turning off along the Dundas Road firebreak. Here, the track continues its descent along the ridge, meandering through a landscape both ancient and untouched.

 

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After two kilometres along Dundas Road, I arrive at Dundas Road Bush Camp, where the track intersects Goodes Road and Cabbage Tree Road. This camping spot feels wonderfully familiar, being very similar to Scrub Road Camp. Nestled amidst the forest, it features a charming little shelter and three cosy tent sites that offer a tranquil retreat. As I set up for my second night on the range, the gentle murmur of the surrounding bush and the soft glow of the setting sun create a serene atmosphere.

 
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